Container gardening sounds easy enough—pick a pot, add some soil, pop in a plant, and wait for the magic to happen. But if you’ve ever watched a seemingly healthy plant slowly give up on life in a beautiful planter, you know it’s not always that simple.
The truth is, not every plant is cut out for life in a container. Some have sprawling root systems, sky-high water needs, or just don’t like being confined. I’ve had my fair share of disappointing container flops over the years, and I’ve learned (sometimes the hard way) which ones are better left in the ground.
To save you the heartache and help your pots thrive from the start, here’s a list of plants that tend to struggle in containers—plus a few reasons why. Knowing what to skip can make all the difference in creating a patio full of happy, healthy greenery.
1. Asparagus Fern
Ever brought home an asparagus fern only to watch it turn brown within weeks? These plants develop massive root systems that quickly become cramped in containers, leading to rapid decline.
Most people make the mistake of treating them like typical ferns with moderate watering. In reality, they need constant moisture but excellent drainage – a difficult balance in pots. Their roots also generate enough force to crack plastic containers.
If you’re determined to grow one, choose a pot at least twice the size you think it needs and repot annually. Otherwise, consider Boston ferns which adapt much better to container life while providing similar feathery texture.
2. Butterfly Bush
Gardeners often grab these butterfly magnets for patios without realizing they’re setting up for failure. Butterfly bushes develop deep, spreading root systems that quickly become strangled in pots.
The root restriction prevents these shrubs from accessing enough nutrients to support their rapid growth and abundant flowering. You’ll notice yellowing leaves, few flowers, and eventual collapse, usually during the first hot spell of summer.
Instead of fighting a losing battle, plant dwarf butterfly bush varieties like ‘Blue Chip’ in garden beds. For containers, try butterfly-friendly alternatives like lantana or pentas that naturally stay smaller and tolerate root restriction without suffering.
3. Mint
Surprisingly, this one often fails in containers despite its reputation for being indestructible in gardens. The problem isn’t that it can’t grow – it’s that it grows too aggressively for its own good.
Mint roots circle the pot rapidly, creating a dense mass that prevents water absorption. Before long, the plant becomes rootbound, the center dies out, and what remains looks scraggly and weak. Many gardeners overwater trying to compensate, which leads to root rot.
To keep mint happy in containers, divide it every spring without fail, replanting only the outer portions in fresh soil. Better yet, use it as a short-term plant, replacing it entirely each season rather than trying to maintain it year-round.
4. Bamboo
Bamboo in containers seems like a great idea for privacy screens until it starts declining fast. Running bamboo varieties literally try to escape pots, while even clumping types quickly become stressed when confined.
Container-grown bamboo often develops yellowing leaves within months as its aggressive root system fills every inch of soil space. The plant then starves itself, unable to access enough nutrients from the depleted soil. Water also drains through too quickly as roots displace soil.
For a similar look without the problems, try ornamental grasses like Miscanthus or Pennisetum. They provide height and movement while actually thriving in containers, with root systems that remain manageable for years with minimal intervention.
5. Rhubarb
Attempting to grow rhubarb in containers almost always leads to disappointment. Those massive leaves require an equally massive root system that simply can’t develop properly in confined spaces.
Container-grown rhubarb typically produces thin, weak stalks before declining rapidly. The plant needs to establish deep roots to survive summer heat, which is impossible in pots that heat up quickly. By mid-summer, most container rhubarb plants have completely collapsed.
If you’re determined to grow edibles on your patio, Swiss chard provides similar large leaves and colorful stems while actually performing well in containers. Unlike rhubarb, it doesn’t require a period of winter dormancy and can thrive in the challenging container environment.
6. Sweet Corn
Those Pinterest images of container corn gardens are wildly misleading. Sweet corn in pots usually produces tiny, poorly-filled ears if any develop at all.
Corn needs extensive root space and relies on being planted in blocks for proper pollination. In containers, the roots hit walls and stop developing, stunting the plants. Wind pollination fails with just a few stalks, leaving you with empty husks instead of juicy kernels.
For edible container plants that actually produce, try determinate tomatoes or peppers instead. They’re similarly sun-loving summer crops but have been bred specifically to perform well in confined spaces, with more manageable root systems and self-pollinating flowers.
7. Wisteria
Nothing kills container gardening enthusiasm faster than watching a prized wisteria wither away. These woody vines develop massive root systems that quickly outgrow even large pots.
The confined roots can’t support the plant’s ambitious growth habit, leading to stunted stems and few if any of those coveted flower clusters. Worse, wisteria in pots often suffers from freeze damage in winter since the roots lack the soil insulation they’d have in the ground.
For container-friendly climbers that actually flower reliably, try mandevilla or black-eyed Susan vine instead. Both produce abundant blooms all season without the aggressive root systems that make wisteria a container disaster.
8. Zucchini
Many container gardeners plant zucchini expecting the legendary productivity these plants show in gardens. Instead, they get yellowing leaves, dropped flowers, and maybe one or two stunted fruits before the plant collapses.
Zucchini plants need far more soil volume than most containers provide. Their shallow, spreading roots quickly hit pot walls and stop developing. The restricted root system can’t uptake enough water during hot weather, leading to blossom end rot and wilting.
Bush cucumber varieties make much better container choices for similar harvests. They naturally stay more compact while producing well in pots. ‘Patio Snacker’ and ‘Salad Bush’ cucumbers were specifically bred for container performance, unlike most zucchini varieties.
9. Peonies
Garden centers sometimes sell peonies in pots, but these long-lived perennials almost never survive in containers. Peonies require deep, undisturbed soil to develop their extensive root systems over many years.
Container-grown peonies typically decline after one season. The restricted roots can’t store enough energy to support proper growth and flowering the following year. The plant might leaf out weakly but produces progressively smaller foliage each season until it disappears entirely.
For long-lasting container perennials with similarly showy flowers, try dahlias instead. Unlike peonies, dahlias actually benefit from being dug up annually, making them perfectly suited to container culture where you can easily refresh their soil each spring.
10. Artichokes
Garden artichokes make stunning architectural plants, but their container performance is abysmal. These Mediterranean vegetables develop deep taproots that quickly become distorted in pots.
When confined to containers, artichokes rarely produce the edible flower buds they’re grown for. Instead, they develop stunted foliage that often becomes infested with aphids and spider mites. By midsummer, most container artichokes have completely collapsed, especially during hot weather.
For a similar dramatic foliage effect in containers, try cardoon (a close relative) or ornamental kale. Both provide the silvery-blue, deeply cut leaves that make artichokes visually appealing, but with root systems better adapted to container growing conditions.
11. Delphiniums
Few container disasters are as disappointing as watching delphiniums collapse. These stunning spire-shaped flowers need deep, cool soil for their roots – conditions nearly impossible to maintain in pots.
Container-grown delphiniums typically produce one weak flower spike before declining rapidly. Their roots overheat in containers, especially during summer, leading to wilting despite regular watering. The plants also become top-heavy and prone to snapping at the base.
For reliable vertical flowers in containers, try foxgloves or snapdragons instead. Both provide similar spire-shaped blooms but have fibrous root systems that adapt well to container life, without the delphinium’s deep-rooted temperature sensitivity.
12. Horseradish
Growing this in containers seems practical until the plant quickly declines. This root crop needs extensive soil depth to develop the long, straight roots that are harvested for their pungent flavor.
In pots, horseradish roots become stunted and twisted, developing poor flavor and fibrous texture. The confined roots also can’t access enough nutrients, causing yellowing leaves and weak growth. By mid-season, most container horseradish looks sickly and unproductive.
For container-friendly root crops, grow radishes instead. They develop quickly in shallow soil and actually perform better in containers than in garden beds where soil can be too warm for optimal development. ‘French Breakfast’ and ‘Cherry Belle’ varieties are particularly well-suited to pot culture.
13. Hollyhocks
These make stunning vertical accents in gardens but fail spectacularly in containers. Their long taproots need to grow straight down, something impossible in even the deepest pots.
Container-grown hollyhocks typically develop stunted flower stalks that fall over easily. The plants also become magnets for rust disease when grown in pots, as air circulation is reduced around the crowded foliage. Most collapse before producing more than a few flowers.
For container-friendly vertical bloomers, angelonia or salvia ‘Mystic Spires’ make excellent alternatives. Both provide extended bloom periods with upright habits, but their fibrous root systems thrive in the limited space of containers unlike the hollyhock’s garden-dependent taproot.
14. Asparagus
Asparagus might be sold in small pots at garden centers, but trying to grow it as a container crop leads to certain failure. These perennial vegetables need years to establish before harvesting and require extensive soil depth.
In containers, asparagus crowns develop weak, spindly spears that never reach harvestable size. The plants exhaust the limited nutrients quickly and can’t develop the extensive root system needed to support robust spring growth. Most container asparagus plants die within a year.
For container-friendly perennial vegetables, try growing ramps (wild leeks) or walking onions instead. Both provide delicious harvests from pots while having root systems that don’t mind the confined space, unlike asparagus which requires deep, undisturbed soil to thrive.
15. Sunflowers
Tall sunflower varieties in containers create a perfect storm of problems. The plants quickly become top-heavy as they reach for the sky, while their roots remain confined in too little soil.
Container sunflowers typically topple over once they reach about three feet tall. Their heavy flower heads act like sails in the wind, while the restricted root system can’t provide adequate anchorage. The plants also need massive amounts of water that pots simply can’t hold enough of.
If you love sunflowers, look for dwarf varieties specifically bred for containers, like ‘Teddy Bear’ or ‘Sunspot.’ These naturally shorter plants develop proportional root systems that can support their more modest top growth, making them actually container-appropriate.
16. Rhubarb Chard
Don’t confuse rhubarb chard (sometimes called ruby chard) with regular Swiss chard. This particular variety develops massive leaves on thick, crimson stalks that quickly outgrow containers.
When grown in pots, rhubarb chard depletes soil nutrients rapidly, leading to yellowing leaves and weak growth. The large leaves also create too much surface area for water loss, causing wilting even with regular watering. Most plants collapse by midsummer, especially during hot weather.
Regular ‘Bright Lights’ or ‘Fordhook’ Swiss chard varieties perform much better in containers. They naturally stay more compact while providing similar colorful stems and nutritious leaves, without the excessive size that makes rhubarb chard unsuitable for pot culture.
17. Jack-In-The-Pulpit
Native woodland plants like Jack-in-the-pulpit might seem like interesting container specimens, but they’re programmed to fail in pots. These forest floor dwellers need consistent soil moisture and temperature that containers simply can’t provide.
Container-grown Jack-in-the-pulpits typically emerge weakly in spring, then rapidly decline as soil temperatures fluctuate. The corms (underground storage structures) often rot in containers due to inconsistent moisture levels. By summer, most container specimens have disappeared entirely.
For unusual container plants with similar exotic appearance, try peace lilies or caladiums instead. Both provide interesting foliage and unusual flowers while actually preferring the protected environment containers provide, unlike woodland natives that depend on the forest ecosystem.
18. Monarda (Bee Balm)
Monarda’s reputation for being easy to grow applies only to garden settings, not containers. These native perennials spread through underground rhizomes that quickly become constricted in pots.
Container-grown bee balm typically produces weak stems with few flowers before declining rapidly. The plants also become severely stressed during hot weather since their roots can’t access cool soil depths. Powdery mildew attacks the weakened plants, leaving them looking terrible by mid-summer.
For pollinator-friendly container plants that actually thrive, try agastache (anise hyssop) or salvia guaranitica. Both attract bees and butterflies with abundant flowers while having more container-appropriate root systems that don’t rely on spreading to maintain plant health.