Hydrangeas bloom beautifully across Massachusetts gardens, but they’re surrounded by more garden myths than almost any other flowering shrub. Many gardeners struggle with these stunning plants because they’re following outdated or simply incorrect advice.
Understanding what’s true and what’s false about hydrangea care can make the difference between stunning blooms and disappointing results in our unique New England climate.
1. All Hydrangeas Need Acid Soil To Turn Blue
While soil pH affects bloom color in some hydrangeas, this rule only applies to certain varieties like Hydrangea macrophylla. Many Massachusetts gardeners waste time and resources trying to acidify soil for all types.
Native oakleaf and smooth hydrangeas won’t change color regardless of soil amendments. Their bloom colors are genetically fixed. Even with bigleaf hydrangeas, your efforts might be futile in some Massachusetts soils that naturally resist pH changes.
2. Pruning All Hydrangeas The Same Way Works Fine
Grabbing pruners without knowing your hydrangea type is a recipe for disappointment. Different varieties bloom on either old wood, new wood, or both, requiring completely different pruning approaches.
Panicle hydrangeas (common in Massachusetts) bloom on new growth and can handle heavy spring pruning. Bigleaf types mostly flower on old wood—cut them back in spring and you’ve just removed this year’s flower buds. Know your specific variety before making a single cut!
3. Adding Pennies To The Soil Creates Blue Flowers
Tossing pennies around hydrangeas won’t magically turn flowers blue. Modern pennies are mostly zinc with copper plating—neither releases enough minerals to significantly change soil chemistry.
For Massachusetts gardeners seeking blue blooms, aluminum sulfate is what actually affects flower color. The copper penny trick persists as garden folklore despite having minimal scientific basis. Save your change and invest in proper soil amendments if you’re serious about blue hydrangeas.
4. Hydrangeas Can’t Handle Full Massachusetts Sun
Many gardeners unnecessarily restrict hydrangeas to shady spots. Panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) actually thrive in full Massachusetts sun and deliver more blooms with increased exposure.
Even bigleaf types can handle morning sun with afternoon shade. The key factor isn’t sunlight but consistent moisture—properly mulched and watered hydrangeas can tolerate more sun than commonly believed. Sun-shy gardening limits your options for these versatile shrubs.
5. Coffee Grounds Always Help Hydrangeas
Coffee grounds get recommended as a miracle amendment for hydrangeas, but they’re not the universal solution many believe. Fresh grounds can actually harm plants by increasing soil acidity too quickly and creating nitrogen imbalances.
Massachusetts gardeners should compost grounds first before application. Even then, they only help if your soil actually needs acidification. Blindly applying coffee grounds without testing your soil first might worsen growing conditions rather than improve them.
6. Wilting Always Means More Water Needed
Seeing droopy hydrangea leaves, many Massachusetts gardeners immediately reach for the watering can. However, wilting often occurs on hot afternoons even when soil moisture is adequate—it’s the plant’s natural response to heat stress.
Check soil moisture by digging down 2 inches before watering. Overwatering causes root rot, especially in Massachusetts clay soils that retain moisture. True water deficiency shows up as wilting that doesn’t recover in the evening when temperatures drop.
7. Fall Fertilization Promotes Better Spring Blooms
Late-season fertilizing won’t improve next year’s flowers and might actually harm your hydrangeas. Fall fertilization stimulates new growth that won’t have time to harden off before Massachusetts winter arrives.
This tender growth becomes susceptible to cold damage. Stop feeding hydrangeas by August in Massachusetts. The best time for fertilization is early spring when plants are actively growing. Your hydrangeas need to prepare for dormancy in fall, not restart their growth cycle.
8. Hydrangeas Need Deep Watering Daily
Daily shallow watering creates weak surface roots instead of deep, drought-resistant root systems. Massachusetts hydrangeas generally need about 1 inch of water weekly, not daily sprinkling.
Deeply water once or twice weekly, allowing soil to dry slightly between waterings. This encourages roots to grow downward seeking moisture. Automatic sprinklers often provide inadequate depth. During our humid summers, daily watering can actually promote fungal diseases that plague many Massachusetts hydrangeas.
9. All Hydrangeas Die Back To The Ground In Winter
Many Massachusetts gardeners unnecessarily cut all hydrangeas to the ground each fall, believing they’ll die back anyway. This misconception confuses hydrangeas with perennials like hostas.
Most hydrangeas are woody shrubs that maintain their structure year-round. Cutting bigleaf or oakleaf varieties to the ground removes next year’s flower buds. Even after harsh Massachusetts winters, wait until spring to assess winter damage before removing any wood.
10. Changing Flower Color Works For All Hydrangeas
Color-changing only works reliably with certain bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla). White-flowering varieties like ‘Annabelle’ or panicle types remain stubbornly white regardless of soil amendments.
Even with color-changing varieties, Massachusetts gardeners often find it harder than expected. Our native soils can resist pH changes, and municipal water may counteract your efforts. Some newer reblooming varieties have been bred for color stability, deliberately resisting the changes gardeners try to induce.
11. Hydrangeas Need Heavy Winter Protection
Many Massachusetts gardeners construct elaborate winter protection systems that do more harm than good. Tightly wrapped burlap or plastic creates moisture traps that promote rot and disease.
Most hydrangea varieties suited to Massachusetts (zones 5-6) need minimal protection. A simple 3-inch layer of mulch over the root zone suffices. For borderline-hardy bigleaf types, an open-top cylinder of chicken wire filled with dry leaves works better than sealed wrappings that prevent proper air circulation.
12. Rusty Nails Create Blue Hydrangea Blooms
The rusty nail myth persists despite minimal scientific support. While iron oxide (rust) might slightly acidify soil, the effect is far too localized and minimal to significantly change bloom color.
Massachusetts gardeners hoping for blue flowers should focus on aluminum availability instead of iron. Iron from rusty nails doesn’t readily dissolve into forms plants can use. Proper soil acidification requires broader approaches like elemental sulfur or aluminum sulfate applied according to soil test recommendations.
13. Hydrangeas Won’t Grow In Clay Massachusetts Soil
While hydrangeas prefer well-draining soil, they can thrive in Massachusetts clay with proper preparation. Many gardeners unnecessarily avoid planting hydrangeas because of our region’s heavy soil.
The key is creating raised planting areas and incorporating organic matter. Panicle hydrangeas (H. paniculata) naturally tolerate clay better than other types. With adequate soil improvement and proper mulching, hydrangeas can perform beautifully even in challenging Massachusetts clay soil conditions.
14. Transplanting Hydrangeas Is Always Risky
Fear of transplanting keeps many Massachusetts gardeners from relocating poorly placed hydrangeas. Contrary to popular belief, these shrubs transplant quite successfully when done properly.
Early spring before budbreak offers the ideal timing in Massachusetts. Prepare the new location first, water thoroughly before digging, and preserve as much of the root ball as possible. Even established plants can be moved with high success rates if you provide adequate aftercare and avoid summer transplanting.
15. Hydrangeas Are Too Fussy For Novice Gardeners
The reputation for being difficult keeps many Massachusetts beginners from enjoying these rewarding shrubs. Certain varieties like ‘Annabelle’ and panicle types are actually among the easiest flowering shrubs to grow in our region.
Choose the right variety for your conditions rather than forcing fussier types. Native smooth hydrangeas and panicle types forgive many beginner mistakes. Most problems stem from improper variety selection or following contradictory care advice, not from any inherent difficulty with the plants themselves.