Late spring is the perfect time to set your lawn up for a strong, green summer—and I’ve learned that a few small steps make a big difference. I used to skip over this season, thinking the lawn would bounce back on its own, but that never worked out well.
With the right care now, you can avoid dry patches, weeds, and other summer headaches. I’ll walk you through what I do each year and a few mistakes I’ve made along the way.
These tips are simple but seriously worth it if you want your grass to thrive.
1. Proper Mowing Height
Never cut more than one-third of the grass blade at once! Taller grass develops deeper roots and naturally shades out weeds. Set your mower to the highest setting for your grass type.
Different grasses need different heights – cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass thrive at 3-4 inches, while warm-season varieties like Bermuda do best at 1-2 inches. Keeping proper height helps your lawn survive summer drought and heat stress.
2. Strategic Watering Schedule
Morning watering gives your lawn the best chance to absorb moisture before the day heats up. Aim for 1-1.5 inches of water weekly, either from rainfall or irrigation, in fewer, deeper sessions rather than frequent light sprinklings.
Water deeply just 2-3 times per week instead of daily. This encourages grass roots to grow deeper into the soil, making your lawn more drought-resistant. Use a rain gauge or tuna can to measure how much water your lawn actually receives.
3. Fertilization Timing
Late spring is prime time to feed your lawn with a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer. Choose a product with a balanced NPK ratio like 20-5-10 for most established lawns. Apply when grass is dry but soil is moist.
Slow-release formulas provide steady nutrition without burning your grass in warmer temperatures. Consider using organic options like compost tea or milorganite for a more environmentally friendly approach. Always follow package directions for application rates.
4. Weed Control Strategies
Attack weeds before they take over! For broadleaf weeds like dandelions, spot-treat with selective herbicides on windless days when temperatures are between 60-80°F. Always read product labels carefully before application.
For crabgrass prevention, apply a pre-emergent herbicide if you haven’t already. Hand-pulling is effective for isolated weeds – just be sure to get the entire root. Maintaining proper mowing height naturally suppresses many weeds by blocking sunlight from reaching weed seeds.
5. Aeration Benefits
Compacted soil prevents water, nutrients, and oxygen from reaching grass roots. Core aeration removes small plugs of soil, allowing these essentials to penetrate deeply. Late spring is ideal for this task if you missed the fall window.
Rent a core aerator from your local hardware store or hire a lawn service. Focus on high-traffic areas that show signs of compaction. Leave the soil plugs on your lawn – they’ll break down naturally and return nutrients to the soil.
6. Overseeding Thin Areas
Fill in bare or thin patches by overseeding before summer heat arrives. Choose grass seed varieties that match your existing lawn and are appropriate for your climate zone. Rake the area lightly to ensure good seed-to-soil contact.
Keep newly seeded areas consistently moist until germination occurs. Cover with a thin layer of compost to improve germination rates. Avoid applying pre-emergent herbicides if you plan to overseed, as they prevent grass seed germination too.
7. Thatch Management
Thatch is the layer of dead grass and debris between green blades and soil. A thin layer (less than ½ inch) is beneficial, but excessive thatch blocks water and nutrients from reaching roots.
Check thatch thickness by removing a small wedge of lawn. If it’s over ½ inch thick, use a dethatching rake or power dethatcher to remove it. For severe cases, core aeration helps break down thatch by introducing beneficial microorganisms that decompose the material naturally.
8. Edging and Trimming
Create clean boundaries between your lawn and garden beds, walkways, or driveways. A sharp spade or mechanical edger cuts through turf to create distinct lines that prevent grass from invading other areas.
Maintain these edges throughout the growing season with a string trimmer. This detail work not only improves your lawn’s appearance but also makes mowing easier. Professional-looking edging instantly boosts your home’s curb appeal with minimal time investment.
9. Pest Monitoring
Late spring is when many lawn pests become active. Watch for signs of trouble like irregular brown patches, chewed grass blades, or visible insects. Common culprits include grubs, chinch bugs, and sod webworms.
Perform a simple test by pouring soapy water over suspicious areas – this forces insects to the surface. Beneficial nematodes offer natural control for many pests. Only use chemical insecticides as a last resort when proper identification confirms a serious infestation.
10. Soil pH Testing
Grass thrives in soil with the right pH level – typically between 6.0 and 7.0. Home testing kits from garden centers make checking your soil’s pH easy. Simply collect samples from several lawn areas, mix them together, and follow the kit instructions.
If your soil is too acidic (below 6.0), apply lime according to test recommendations. For alkaline soil (above 7.0), add sulfur products. Making these adjustments now helps your grass better absorb nutrients throughout the growing season.
11. Avoid Mowing Wet Grass
Cutting wet grass creates a multitude of problems! Moisture-laden blades tear instead of cutting cleanly, leaving jagged edges that brown quickly and invite disease. Wet clippings clump together, smothering healthy grass beneath.
Mowers struggle on wet lawns, creating ruts and compacting soil. Slippery conditions also increase accident risk. Wait until dew has dried or several days after heavy rain. If you must mow when slightly damp, sharpen blades first and clean your mower thoroughly afterward.
12. Prevent Scalping Damage
Scalping occurs when you cut grass too short, removing too much of the blade at once. This stresses the plant, leaving brown patches and creating openings for weeds and disease. Always follow the one-third rule when mowing.
Be especially careful on uneven terrain where mower wheels can drop into low spots. Consider leveling severely uneven areas with topsoil. Adjust mower height before moving from flat areas to slopes to prevent accidental scalping that can damage your lawn for weeks.
13. Minimize Chemical Exposure
Over-application of lawn chemicals damages grass and harms beneficial organisms. Always measure products precisely according to label directions rather than estimating. Use spot treatments for isolated weed or pest problems instead of treating the entire lawn.
Consider natural alternatives when possible. Corn gluten meal provides natural pre-emergent weed control. Neem oil deters many insects without harming pollinators. Allow beneficial insects like ladybugs and praying mantises to establish natural pest control in your yard.
14. Protect Against Dog Damage
Dog urine contains nitrogen that burns grass in concentrated spots. Train your pup to use a designated bathroom area covered with gravel or mulch. Immediately hosing down urine spots dilutes the nitrogen, preventing burn marks.
For existing damage, remove dead grass and reseed the area. Consider installing a small water feature or sprinkler system in high-traffic areas. Some lawn supplements claim to neutralize urine effects, though results vary. Keeping your dog well-hydrated produces more diluted, less harmful urine.
15. Irrigation System Checkup
Before summer heat arrives, inspect your sprinkler system thoroughly. Run each zone to check for broken heads, clogged nozzles, or misaligned spray patterns. Replace damaged components and adjust heads to prevent watering sidewalks or driveways.
Verify timer settings match seasonal needs – late spring typically requires less frequent watering than summer. Consider installing a rain sensor that automatically skips scheduled waterings after rainfall. Check for leaks in underground lines by looking for unusually lush or soggy areas.